Story and photos by Cheryl Hartz
Sandstone or limestone comprise most natural bridges around the globe. But Arizona is home to what just might be the world’s largest travertine bridge, with a thickness of 60 feet and a height of 183 feet. It has a tunnel width of 150 feet and tunnel length of 393 feet. This wonder, complete with waterfall, is at Tonto Natural Bridge State Park near Pine and about 10 miles north of Payson on State Route 87.
The scientific explanation of Tonto Natural Bridge is that an ancient lava flow eroded, was covered by sea water and then by another lava flow, which eroded again to form Pine Creek Canyon. Rainfall created limestone aquifers under the rock that carried dissolved limestone and calcium carbonate to form a travertine dam. Pine Creek wore away the dam to create the bridge.
Paved paths along the top of the park – elevation 4,530 feet – boast four viewpoints with views of Arizona’s Rim Country. Dogs are allowed on these paths, but not on the four hiking trails.
Hiking shoes are recommended for the trails, which, although under a half-mile each, are steep and strenuous. Carry water and pack out trash. There aren’t trash cans on trails. Don’t take glass containers in, either.
Two trails offer approximately a one-hour hike each. Pine Creek Trail, about 0.5 miles long, leads to Pine Creek natural area. Anna Mae Trail is about 500 feet in length and leads to Pine Creek Trail and the Natural Bridge. As of July monsoons, both trails were closed because of flooding. Check availability in the fall.
Waterfall Trail is about 300 feet long and ends at waterfall cave. Navigating the wet and uneven steps will take you 15-20 minutes. You might need more time to marvel at the moss-covered rocks and lush vegetation unusual to the surrounding desert terrain.
Gowan Trail, 2,200 feet long, goes down to an observation deck in the creek bottom. Its trail is steep and rough. Allow at least one hour. The inviting pool at the bottom is not open for swimming, but people do wade in to cool off.
The road to acquire the property as a state park was a long one, initiated in 1967. The park was not dedicated until 1991. Reading between the lines of its history on the website, it appears to me that the state expected a bargain, originally offering less than half of the asking price. Even after completing a low-ball appraisal that was ultimately redone to nearly three times the original appraisal, state officials offered an insultingly low price for the 160 acres. So another wonder is that we now enjoy this gem today as a state park.
A couple of paid activities are planned for September.
The weekend of September 11-12: Family Campout is for those with little or no camping experience. Learn to set up a tent, cook outside and more. $90 for a family of 4. No children under 5 or pets. No RVs. Register at www.azstateparks.com/family-camp.
Sept. 18, 4-7 p.m.: Taste at the Bridge fundraiser supports the park. Wine tasting, beer, food, live music and live auction. $50 per guest.
Park hours are 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Last entry is 4 p.m., which is also when trails close.
Goodfellow Lodge is not available for overnight stays, as of July. The gift shop with educational displays is open.
Happy geological hiking!
